How to maintain the correct pH level? I irrigate with well water, which has a pH of 6.5. In the plantation, the soil pH is between 5.5 and 6. Under the bushes, I use acidic peat and pine sawdust for mulching. The oldest bushes are 4 years old, and the youngest are 1 year old. Every year, I expand the plantation by 20\u201330 new plants. How can I maintain the proper pH level?
\n Woda jest ca\u0142kiem niez\u0142a, zwykle w studniach ma pH 7,2. Proste zakwaszanie gleby to u\u017cycie siarki pylistej w ilo\u015bci 1,5kg na 100m2(1ar) jednorazowo, 3-4 razy w roku. Np. w marcu, maju, sierpniu, pa\u017adzierniku. Siark\u0119 sypiemy na ca\u0142\u0105 powierzchni\u0119! Prosz\u0119 NIE sypa\u0107 „garstk\u0105” pod ro\u015blin\u0119.
\n How to save the bushes from grubs? Last year they damaged almost 20% of the crop. I applied the product Laevanem in August, but I\u2019m not sure how effective it was. I'm wondering if laying agrotextile between the rows is a good method, since, for example, starlings have no way to assist in controlling the grubs. Please provide a method for dealing with these pests.
\n Grubs are difficult to control. The use of Larvanem should be repeated every season, ideally by watering both the plants and the surrounding area. Starlings are not very effective\u2014they can't reach the grubs. Moles are actually more helpful, although for some reason everyone wants to get rid of them.
\n What should be the thickness of the peat\u2013sawdust\u2013bark mixture layer under the bush, not including the preparation of the soil at the proper depth? Thank you and best regards.
\n The absolute minimum is 30 cm, with 50 cm being optimal.
\n Is it advisable to acidify the soil for blueberries using diluted nitric acid? If so, during what period and at what concentration?
\n First, a warning: nitric acid is dangerous! Yes, it can be used to acidify water. However, it\u2019s not possible to say exactly how much acid is needed \u2014 it depends on the mineral content (salts) in the water. The required amount must be determined by carefully adding drops of acid to, for example, a 10-liter bucket of water.
\n This year, I purchased several-year-old highbush blueberry bushes. They are about 1.5 meters tall and were dug directly from a plantation with a root ball (on average, about 25\u201330 cm in diameter). The bushes are currently in the flowering stage and, in my opinion, have established themselves very well. The planting holes were twice as wide as the root ball. We also applied fertilizer for blueberries and are watering regularly.\n\nNow, my question is: a farmer friend of mine said that after transplanting such large bushes with trimmed roots, all flowers should be removed during this season \u2014 meaning no fruit should be allowed to develop \u2014 so the bush can regenerate. He claims that if we don\u2019t do this, the bushes might dry out in the following season. Is that really true? It would be a shame to lose such a promising crop, as the bushes look very healthy and there seems to be a lot of fruit coming.
\n He\u2019s absolutely right \u2014 but that\u2019s not the whole story. If the bushes have 1.5-meter-long shoots and a root system only the size of a bucket, that means only about 30% of the roots remain. In that case, **not only should you remove the flowers**, but you also need to **reduce both the number and length of shoots**, leaving at most **50% of the above-ground growth**.\n\nThis year will be a battle for the bushes to establish themselves \u2014 you should forget about any fruit this season. Saying that the bushes have already taken root is **quite premature**. They simply haven\u2019t had enough time to rebuild their root systems. You\u2019ll only be able to talk about successful establishment **by autumn at the earliest**.
\n Good morning,\nI have a problem with my blueberries \u2014 the bushes were blooming beautifully, but now some of the leaves are drying out, entire branches are withering, and the plants are deteriorating.
\n poczta@borowka.pl – Prosz\u0119 o jakie\u015b zdj\u0119cia, opis co by\u0142o robione (nawo\u017cenie, ochrona chemiczna). Na obecnym etapie to tak jakby do lekarza przez telefon powiedzie\u0107: jestem chory prosz\u0119 mi co\u015b przepisa\u0107.
\n Good morning, \nI\u2019ve had a blueberry plantation for many years, and until now, there have been no problems. This year, however, there has been an infestation of scale insects. I purchased SilTac EC and have been spraying the blueberries with it. Is this a good product, or should I be using a different insecticide? If so, I would appreciate the name. \nI\u2019m also interested in how I can tell if the scale insects are responding to the treatment. \nThank you in advance for your response. \nBest regards, \nAnna
\n SilTac EC is a product designed to mechanically block the larvae that emerge from eggs in the spring. At this point, it's a bit late for effective chemical control. After the harvest, scale insects can be controlled, for example, with **Movento**. \n\nThe effectiveness of the spray can be observed by the disappearance of live insects.
\n Good morning, \nI have a question about watering. I use well water, and after measuring the pH, it shows 7.5. I know it should be around 5\u20135.5. I have 30 blueberry bushes and plan to water them generously. My question is simple: **what\u2019s the best and easiest way to acidify the water**?\n\nIn spring, I want to acidify the water with **nitric acid**, and toward the end of summer with **phosphoric acid**, because according to the articles I've read, these acids are used for acidifying water on large plantations. \nHowever, I also read that some people use **citric acid** or even **vinegar**. \n\nWhich method would be best to safely acidify the water **without harming the blueberries**?
\n Kwasem azotowym, siarkowym, fosforowym. Organiczne niby te\u017c zakwaszaj\u0105 wod\u0119 ale w glebie s\u0105 potem rozk\u0142adane przez mikroorganizmy i efekt jest \u017caden. Istotne jest nie pH wyj\u015bciowe tylo twardo\u015b\u0107 wody – od tego zale\u017cy ilo\u015b\u0107 kwasu do obni\u017cenia pH. Przeci\u0119tnie ok. 100ml do 200ml kwasu azotowego 55% na 1000l wody<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Jak utrzyma prawid\u0142owy poziom PH Nawadniam woda ze studni gdzie PH wody to 6,5 w uprawie w granicach 5,5-6 ph pod krzewami jest wysykane torfem kwasnymi trocinami sosnowymi uprawa ta ma najstarsze krzewy 4 lata najm\u0142odsze krzewy 1 rok co roku powi\u0119kszam o 20-30szt .Jak utrzymac prawid\u0142owe PH ? Woda jest ca\u0142kiem niez\u0142a, zwykle w […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"elementor_header_footer","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-10731","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\n